Our arrival in Egypt was anything but easy. Our plan was to put our vehicle on a ferry from Aqaba and land in the Sinai in the town of Neweba. We did not expect to encounter as many problems as we did. On the Aqaba side, the immigration officer giving us our exit stamps "somehow" missed stamping one of our passports, something we didn't know about until a minute before we were supposed to drive the vehicle onto the ship. Fortunately the dock manager was sympathetic and allowed us to go back to immigration to acquire the missing stamp. We got back to the boat literally as the ramp was being raised, and only after arguing with a random guard (in Arabic) who wasn't going to allow us to re-enter the dock without a lengthy vehicle inspection. "But we were just here 30 minutes ago and you looked through everything!" He finally gave up and waved us on, frustrated that we couldn't understand his excuse for wanting to search us again. We pulled the "white guy card" on that one. But... back to the story. We made it onto the ship in the nick of time and were pleased when the ship's crew bumped us up to first class. We are not sure whether or not it was because of our passports or because we were obvious foreigners, but it was a welcome bonus after the recent drama at the dock. The crossing of the Red Sea was very quick (about an hour and a half) but there was a problem when we reached Neweba. Because of rough seas there was only one dock the ship we were on could dock at, and there was another ship stuck at that dock due to some problems with its cargo. We waited offshore for over two hours. During that time, one of the financiers of the ferry company stopped by the table to offer his apologies and inform us that the ship had used so much fuel while waiting that they had lost all of their profits from this trip. We spent a little time after that wondering why we needed to know that information.
Now the real fun began... in customs. We had done everything we thought was necessary to successfully bring our vehicle into Egypt. We checked and double-checked with our shipping office in the embassy in Amman about what was required and did we have everything we needed. The answer we got was "yes, all you need are these papers and you are good to go." We are going to punch our buds in shipping. They didn't tell us that our vehicle had to be equipped with a fire extinguisher, and apparently the papers we were handed did not have the insurance we purchased included in them. Lesson learned on our part... read everything thoroughly. But, we were trusting and it bit us in the end. We were informed by the customs personnel (they are all police) that we would have to purchase a fire extinguisher before we would be allowed in. Of course, they have a stock of fire extinguishers ready to sell you. Next, we had to pay for insurance on the vehicle. We learned this after an exhaustive struggle to understand angry Egyptian dialect. So we paid a hefty sum for insurance on the vehicle. Next, we had to pay a "customs fee", yet another thing we had no clue was coming. Oh but wait, the hefty sum we paid earlier was actually the customs fee, even though it was clearly explained when we paid it that it was the insurance fee (we were all talking insurance at that time). So, another debate and an hour later and we still don't have insurance. By this point we've had no fewer than 10 people talk to us, some in uniform, some not. We handed our passports and ID cards over more than six or seven times. They must have made a thousand copies. About a dozen trips into random offices later and we still had gotten nowhere. Our minds were starting to go numb trying to understand what they wanted from us in order to leave. The answer was already there in our minds... they wanted to squeeze as much money out of the Americans as they could. After we had been there for about three hours waiting on God only knows what to happen, we managed to pay several more random fees (60 pounds for this, 100 pounds for that... 20 pounds for something else), have our stuff searched (are those sticks for stabbing people? no, they are for hiking), give a tip to the employee who changed our vehicle tags to temporary Egyptian tags (at he suggestion of the police), and we were free to leave. Oh wait... no, we had to stop at the gate for yet another search, yet another handing over of our documents, a few more questions, and now we could leave. We were dumbfounded at how completely inefficient the organization was. And we still don't know what the very large customs fee was for considering we were not importing anything but our personal belongings and would be leaving in two weeks. It was something we knew we had to experience at least once while traveling, and we are glad that part is over.
So, we made our way south along the Red Sea to the town of Dahab. A hippy little resort town with lots of Europeans running around. We didn't get here until 1am and we will be leaving shortly to find St. Catherine's Monastery and hike up Mt. Sinai, where we will camp for the night, enshallah.
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